I want to make the raised beds as close to 1'/30cm deep as possible. Mel Bartholomew, author of The Square Foot Garden claims a 6"/15cm depth of soil is OK. I think 1'/30cm is required. Therefore, my choice of lumber was 2" x 12"/ 50mm x 30cm boards.
The finished dimensions of the beds will be 4' x 4'/ 1.2m x 1.2m. There were only two lengths of 2x12s available at my home improvement store, 12' long and 16' long. I didn't want to have any waste but that wasn't possible with only those two lengths available. I calculated the most efficient purchase to be two 2" x 12" x 16'/ 50mm x 30cm x 4.9m and one 2" x 12" x 12'/ 50mm x 30cm x 3.6m for the sides. Adding one 2" x 4" x 8'/ 50mm x 101 x 1.4m board to connect the corners.
I had the boards cut at the home improvement store in order that they fit into the car. The 16' 2x12s were cut into four 4'6"/1.37m, two 4'/1.2m and two 3'/.9m lengths. The 12' 2x12 was cut into four 4'/1.2m lengths. The 8' 2x4 was cut into eight 1'/30cm lengths. The 3'/.9m lengths of 2x12s will not be used and are therefore, waste.
When you are buying the lumber choose the straightest boards with as few knots, checks and cracks as you can find. This is not absolutely imperative but will get you the best product and keep the splitting on the ends to a minimum.
The first task is to check the ends of the boards for squareness. To do that use a framing square. The one in the photograph is a 2'/ 31cm square. The reason to check is that the saw may not have been set up correctly. If it was not, the ends will be out of square. Out of square ends will make construction more difficult. You can see in the above photograph the end is square.
Next task was to screw one 1' length of 2x4 to each end of the same side of the 4' 2x12s. I used three 2-1/2" exterior deck screws to attach each 2x4 length.
To keep the end splitting to a minimum place the screws in the above pattern. The top and bottom screws are spaced about 1-1/2"-2" from the top and bottom of the 2x12. If the screws are placed closer to the edges they will probably split the 2x12 reducing the holding power and stability of the joint. Place the middle screw to the inside of the 2x4, as you can see in the above photograph. If the three screws were placed inline with each other, the 2x4 may split from end to end if you kept the screws inline. If the 2x4 split in half, it would need to be replaced.
Attach all the 2x4s to all the 4' 2x12s completing that part of the construction.
Next task was to screw the 4'6" lengths to the 4' lengths. So why are there 4' and 4'6" lengths when the frames are 4' square, you ask? Well, I will explain. If all the lengths were 4' long, only the inside edges of the ends would touch. There would be no overlap so the two boards can be fastened.
Then you may ask, if the boards are a nominal 2" thick, actually 1-1/2" thick, why didn't I cut the other sides at 4' 3"? Well, here is the answer. End grain does not hold nails or screws well. The fasteners would just pull out of the ends. So, increase the lengths of the sides by 6" or 4x the 1-1/2" thickness of the boards and you can fasten the sides into the 1' lengths of 2x4s I fastened to the ends of the 4' lengths. Get the idea?
Next step is to fasten the corners. Stack several of the 4' lengths atop each other and then stand one of the 4' lengths up right next to the stack. This will help keep the upright 4' length standing upright. Then bring one of the 4'6" lengths to meet at one of the corners.
This is what the corner will look like. You can see that if the surface on which you are working is level and flat the corner will come together squarely. If not you will need to shim one of the sides to the corner meets squarely. You can see the end of the 4'6" length is already cracked. A screw placed near that crack will weaken the joint. Be careful of the screw placement.
So now is the time to screw the two boards together. If the screws are placed too close to the end of the board they will split it. Start the screws in from the end more than the thickness of the 2x4 on the 4' length and place the screws at a shallow angle. An angle that will go into the 2x4 but not exit the 2x4.
Get the picture?
Originally I wasn't going to paint the frames. But, after speaking with a few friends and my wife, I decided to paint them. Start with an exterior undercoat. Make sure to get paint on every bit of board that can be reached with the roller and then use a brush to get in even tighter crevices.
Still there were places that had gaps. Gaps that needed caulking. Fill the gaps with paintable caulk before applying the finish coat. Two finish coats, if necessary.
For the last two years, I purchased Thistle/Nyjer seed feeders, like the one above. Made of fabric, the goldfinch rip them apart getting out the seeds. They didn't last more than one season.
I tried to make replacement feeders from some fiberglass screening material I had in the garage. As you can see in the photo on the right, the goldfinch ripped open some sizable holes in the fiberglass. Unlike the sock fabric, the fiberglass material didn't stretch. Many a seed found its way to the ground, wasted.
This year I am taking a different approach to the feeder. I decided to reuse a soft drink bottle made of PET (polyethylene terephthalate)as the main body of a feeder I am building. I originally thought of using a 2L bottle, but that seemed excessively large. So I opted for a 1L bottle. I happened to have one in my recycling bin.
I found quite a few products available online. There are feeders that range from two perches to thirty perches. There are feeders that even have feeding holes under the perches. Seems the goldfinches are the only bird that will feed upside down. So I printed out some images of the feeders and scaled the distance from the perch to the feeding holes and the length of the perches. What I figured was the perches were spaced every 4"/101.6 cm with the feeding holes 2"/58 mm above each 1.25"/31.75mm perch.
Knowing I would be blogging about making the feeder, I sat down one night and wrote down the materials and tools I thought I needed to complete the feeder. Here are my lists: TOOLS
Marker
Measuring device(s)
Scissors
Power drill
3/16"/5mm drill bit
1/8"/3mm drill bit
pliers with wire cutter
MATERIALS
1L Soft drink bottle
Adhesive tape
3/16"/5mm wooden dowel
Paper for layout
Heavy wire
Light wire
CONSTRUCTION PROCEDURE
Gather all the tools and materials
Clear a working surface
Wash interior of soft drink bottle
Remove bottle label
Measure bottle height
Cut paper
Fold paper
Mark holes on paper
Arrange paper around bottle
Tape paper to itself and bottle
Drill 3/16"/5mm holes for dowels
Drill 1/8"/3mm feeding holes
Assemble heavy wire ring with eyes
Attach light wires to heavy ring
Make hanging bale of heavy wire
Attach bale through eyes
Dry bottle before filling with Nyjer seeds
Clean drill filings from dry bottle
Fill feeder with seeds
Screw cap onto bottle
Hang feeder outside
Clean up the work area
I will go over step by step my procedures to create the feeder from scratch.
Here are the materials and most of the tools.
I first measured the height of the bottle from the table top to where the bottle begins to reduce in circumference. I decided 7"/ 178.8mm was good.
I measured 7"/178.8mm from a factory cut edge toward the center of the paper and placed a mark in four places along the length of the paper. I was using packing paper that was inside a recent mail order shipment. That is why the paper is wrinkled.
Next, rather than using a straight edge/yardstick, I folded the paper using the marks and factory cut edges on the ends to create a straight line. I tried to keep the fold straight but measured the paper along the fold to be sure I was close. It isn't necessary to have a perfectly straight line. That edge will be the top of the bottle and this isn't even bottle rocket science.
Cut along that fold (with the scissors I forgot to photograph).
You will now have a long length of paper that is 7"/178.8mm tall. Roll the paper around the bottle, keeping the paper tight against the bottle. Mark the paper where the factory edge touches the main body of the paper.
This is the length of the paper needed to cover the circumference of the bottle. I figured 10-5/16"/26.19375cm. I cut the length longer and folded the paper to length. I did this to add some substance to the paper, make it less likely to tear. You can see I marked the factory edges, so I wouldn't forget.
I decided the night before to have perches every 90º. Now I to layout the holes on the paper. At this point I could have gone to the garage for my rafter square. Marking the holes on the paper would be tedious, to say the least. Instead, I folded the paper widthwise in quarters, because there are four 90º arcs in a circle.
First fold the paper in half widthwise.
Open the paper to full width. Fold each end into the center crease.
Then do the same for the other end.
You now have four equal vertical divisions. Now for the horizontal divisions.
Remember, I wanted to place the perches 2"/50mm from each feeding hole. I decided to place a perch 1/4"/6.35mm from the bottom of the bottle. Then the first feeding hole would be 2"/50mm above that. There would be another perch at that level rotating 90º around the bottle. I marked the paper 1/4"/25mm up from the bottom factory edge. Then 2"/50mm up from that. Then another mark 2"/50mm up from that mark and another 2"/50mm to another mark.
I then folded the paper at each of those marks making sure the vertical folds aligned which keeps the horizontal lines straight.
What results is a grid of folded creases with the first horizontal crease 1/4"/ 6mm above the bottom edge.
I then marked on the paper each hole to be drilled. The circled crease intersections are for perches the others for feeding holes.
I removed the label at this point. It can be removed at any time before you cover the bottle with the layer of paper. I used a utility knife. Lift the label a bit and cut under the label. Do not cut the bottle, or your fingers, hand or any part that may bleed, please.
There were two strips of label remaining after peeling the label. I placed the bottle under running hot tap water to remove the remaining label. There was some adhesive residue left on the bottle. I didn't think removing the residue was important.
The next step is to align the paper with the bottom of the bottle. I wanted to place a perch 1/4" 12mm from the bottom. This proved difficult. There are five divisions on the bottle bottom, every 72º. My layout for perches are at 90º. The holes would need to be at the edges of divisions and just glancing the walls of the divisions. I gave up on the bottom perches.
Tear off some strips of adhesive tape. Place them half on the work surface with the other half over the edge in mid-air so you will be able to grab it easily with one hand. Stand the bottle on its bottom. Wrap the paper around the bottle, keeping it as tight as possible. Align the lines and place one piece of tape on the seam to keep the paper in place.
Making sure the bottom edge of the paper is touching the work surface, place tape strips along the seam. Then tape the top of the paper to the bottle. The bottle is ready to drill. As you see in the photo above the perch holes are circled.
Put the 3/16"/5mm drill bit into the power drill. (I thought about using a hot nail to make the holes but, I was afraid using heat might result in holes larger than needed.) Don't push hard. The bottle wall will collapse. You will need to squeeze the bottle to add rigidity. The bit may slide off the mark. Be patient. Whatever you do, do not place your holding hand directly across from the hole being drilled. Ventilated hands are not in fashion this spring. Nor is the color, blood red. Once all the larger perch holes are drilled, change to the smaller bit to drill the feeder holes.
With all the holes drilled, it is time to cut the wooden dowel. The bottle is approximately 3"/75mm in diameter. The perches need to project at least 1"/25mm from the bottle wall. I decided to cut the dowels at 5-1/2"/14cm.
Since the dowel has such a small diameter, I used the utility knife to cut it. Again, be careful. Use a gentle pressure and roll the dowel on the table to mark the cut. Then begin to increase the pressure while rotating the dowel, bit by bit. Be sure the work surface is sturdy and able to take the pressure you will be exerting to make the cut. If you are using the kitchen, dining room or coffee table, use a cutting board under the dowel. Your spouse will appreciate it.
Insert the dowels into the perch holes. The holes should be snug. The bottle will need to be squeezed a bit to get the dowels through. Leave equal amounts of dowel projecting from each side of the bottle. If the holes are snug you will not need to water proof or place any caulk around the dowels. If the holes are loose, silicone caulk may be used to keep the dowels in place. Use as little caulk as possible.
Next step is the hanging structure, starting with the hanging ring.
The circumference is 10-5/16"/ 26.19375cm. Use wire cutters or pliers with a wire cutting edge to cut a length of heavy wire about 1/3 longer than the circumference. Bend the wire in half and twist an eye at the center of the wire. I twisted the wire around a 20 penny common nail to keep the eye open and round. The next step might take some trial and error. You need to make an eye half the circumference from the first eye and still have it 180º around the bottle. Then wrap the wire into a ring.
Fit the loop around the bottle. You can adjust the spacing of the eyes and the tightness of the ring. The ring doesn't need to be perfect. Close is good. The light wire will hold the bottle in place.
Cut two 24"/ 61cm lengths of light wire. Wrap one end of the wire over the heavy wire and twist the wire to itself. Then run the light wire under the bottom of the bottle into one of the and back up the other side and over the hanging ring and fasten it to itself.
Do the same with the other cut wire using the same indentation on one side of the bottle but use a different indentation 72º from the original path taken by the first wire. Attach it also to the hanging ring. In order to keep the wires from sliding around the bottle place them on both sides of the perches.
Cut a length of heavy wire approximately 12"/30cm long. Bend 1"/25mm 180º on each end in opposite directions. Create a gentle bend in the wire to make a hanging bale. Place one bent end into each eye on the hanging ring and bend them so the bottle won't fall off. Remove any drill filings from the bottle. The bottle is ready to be filled.
Using a funnel, fill the bottle with seeds.
Go slowly. Don't make a mess.
You will notice that because I didn't drill the holes close to the bottom of the bottle, there are two holes that don't have perches. I am hoping the Goldfinch will hang upside down to feed from the holes below the perches.
I had to adjust the hanging bale a bit to get it to hang plumb. Not a big problem. I encircled the time lapse camera on my breakfast room window to give you some reference.
This is a reference photo to the other feeder.
There very next day the first Goldfinch was at the feeder.
It won't be long the hummingbirds return.
Have you made reservations for your summer vacation?
