Drip Watering System for Lazy Vegetable Gardening

I am, what I call, a lazy gardener. I don't mind working hard in the spring but when it gets hot, I get lazy. Therefore, I try to do as much work as I am able in the spring to sit back and enjoy the garden through the summer.

In the mail this week, I received the drip irrigation system for my raised beds. Over the past 7-8 years I have been using a 1/2"/ 13mm soaker hose cut to the needed length and joined together with regular garden hose using plastic fittings. However, last year the 1/2"/ 13mm fittings I need were no longer available on the market. Neither in the brick and mortar stores or on the internet. All the available fittings were 5/8"/ 16mm. My old system was not repairable, it was finished, kaput, done. I needed to move on to a new system.

 

From Lowe's, I purchased a Mr. Landscaper Drip Irrigation Vegetable Garden Kit. This is not a item my local Lowe's stocks. I had to make the purchase online at Lowes.com. Over a period of two weeks I experienced problems completing the purchase. Lowe's system just wouldn't complete the sale. I had to call their customer service number listed on the website. To make a long story short, the kit was purchased in Texas and sent via UPS. Way to go Lowe's.

The above tubing included in the kit is 1/4"/6mm inside diameter with one 1/2gal/1.9L per hour/ emitter spaced every 12"/30cm along the hose. This works perfectly with the square foot garden method I am using for these raised beds. How does it work perfectly, you ask? Let me explain.

Each raised bed in divided into 16 equal 1'/ 30cm squares.

                                       

Four 4' lengths of emitter tubing, each with four emitters spaced 12" apart are placed on the bed 12" apart. Thereby having one emitter for each sq ft space. On average over the growing season, each sq ft space will need 1gal of water per week. By isolating the water supply to this drip system for two hours per week, the plants will obtain their needed gal/wk.

I started by installing the emitter tubing, opposite of the manufacturer's installation instructions. I cut the end of the tube 6"/15cm from the first emitter. Starting at one side of the raised bed this measurement placed all the emitters in the center of each delineated sq ft area.

Since I had the plastic mulch already atop the raised bed, I needed to thread the tubing under the plastic. To keep out any foreign matter from the hose, which might stop the water flow, I placed a plug into the leading end of the tube.

If you look closely you can see the leading end on the left side of the photograph as I feed the tube under the plastic. If the end wasn't plugged there would undoubtable be some foreign matter in the tube.

Above you can see the tubing exiting at the next plant. Continue feeding the tubing through until you reach the other side of the bed.

I was able to uncover the surface of the bed to place this row of tubing rather than fishing it under the plastic. Much easier doing it that way.

The next step was to pierce the 1/2"/13mm supply tube. 

Insert a connector and push the end of the emitter tubing onto the connector. Do the same for all four of the emitter tubings.

You will notice in the above photograph, the supply tubing tends to keep its curved shape from all the time it spent coiled in the packaging. That needed to be addressed, next.

I found the above items in my garage. Plastic pipe strapping, hex washer headed sheet metal screws and a magnetic socket to drive the screws. I had both phillips headed and these hex headed screws. I chose the hex screws because I knew the screws would rust outdoors even thought they were coated. The hex headed screws would be easier to remove once the rust got to the screws.

I cut the strap so there were three holes to each length. I chose the length after conforming the strap over the black supply line. 

I placed one strap/clamp on each end of the raised bed frame which left some curve in the supply line near the center of the frame.

To take out that hump in the supply line I added another strap/clamp.

Some supply line needs to extent past the raised bed frame to use the double over clamp you see on the red plastic to the left of the pepper plant above. I am leaving the end of the supply line open until it is connected to the water supply. Just before installing the double over clamp on the end of the line water needs to be flushed through the tube to get out any foreign matter that might clog the tube.

Everything fit perfectly and I have more emitter tubing to extend the drip system to other parts of my garden. With the drip system, the plastic mulch and the raised beds, I am almost ready to a lazy season of vegetable gardening.

Geminid Meteor Showers

©Kevin Adams - kadamsphoto.com

Meteor showers fascinate me. Shooting stars streaking through the sky.  Laying out at night or in the early morning looking up into the heavens. I love it.

In my part of the world, the meteor shower season begins in August. It kind of works out that there is a shower near each of my relatives birthdays. That makes it easy for me to remember when a shower will occur. The next shower happens on my second son's birthday, December 13th. 

I have set my camera on a tripod in my back yard, in the past, to try and capture some images of the streaking particles. However, my suburban community is quite polluted with lights from parking lots and the near by county and state prisons. I need to get away to a light free area like the middle of a desert or high on a mountain top or on a deserted island in the middle of the ocean somewhere. Someday.

With that all out of my system, I was notified via email today of a short lesson on how to photograph meteor showers and I want to pass that on to you. Below is the link. Dress for the cold and get out and enjoy nature's fireworks.

How to photograph meteor showers


©Damyon T. Verbo - all rights reserved

Potato Towers Harvested

2012 was the first time I planted potatoes in towers. I used shredded leaves from last autumn as the medium and planted patio style tomatoes on top of each tower.



Several kinds of potatoes were planted. Three kinds produced spuds - Yukon Gold, Russet and Red Norland.

The tomatoes produced massive amounts of both Husky Cherry and Super Sweet 100 tomatoes. The day I cut down all the plants in the garden, both of these patio tomatoes were still producing fruit. However, the potatoes that were growing under the tomatoes should probably have been harvested earlier. As a matter of fact the potatoes really didn't produce as much leafy greens as they should. There were only a few greens growing out of the tower and those that grew were sparse and short lived. The potato plants were long dead before I cleared the tomatoes and opened the towers.

The towers were opened by straightening the short ends of wire left on each end of the wire fencing the formed each tower. One by one the wires were opened until the fencing could be pulled back. The fabric was opened and the digging for spuds began.

While digging through the shredded leaves, I came in contact with three kinds insects. The first and most aggressive was ants. Ant nests were distributed throughout the medium. In those ant nests were angry ants! They climbed from my hands to my forearms, biting along the way. They entered my shoes, climbed my ankles biting on their way up my pant legs. I had to step back and wipe the ants from my limbs. This took some time, for no sooner did they appear to be off my limbs more appeared, still biting.

Another lovely find in the media were sow bugs. The presence of sow bugs is what makes me think I should have harvested the potatoes earlier. The sow bugs were eating the spuds. Not a great deal of damage but damage none the less.

The last insect I encountered were cicada larvae. Big ugly cicada larvae. Down at the very bottom of each tower between all the weight of the media, potatoes and tomatoes in each tower were some 20 larvae. I placed them on the patio surface for the birds to feast upon. They dried in the sun without any interest from the birds.

Lets get down to the important facts about the potato towers.

The potatoes were small,

the potatoes were few. 

The total weight of all potatoes grown was 1031g/ 2.27lbs.

If I grow potatoes in towers next year there will be changes. Changes such as no tomatoes planted on top of the tower, a way to ensure water is delivered to the whole tower, possibly a different planting media and definitely space between the towers to allow the plant leaves to get more sun which I hope will produce larger spuds.

To the drawing board.

©Damyon T. Verbo - all rights reserved

Planting My Potato Tower

Once the tower was assembled, it was time to plant the potatoes.

I shoveled enough shredded and composted leaves into the tower to bring the amount of leaves to 6" above ground level.

I then cut three wires in the fencing to create a 4" x 6" port in the tower. I also cut the fabric to allow access to place the potatoes inside the tower.  

I purchased three kinds of seed potatoes - All Blue Potato, Red Northland and Yukon Gold.

There were only five All Blue Potatoes in the bag. I don't know how it happened but somehow, they got wet. They looked terrible.

      

                                  

                  view from the top opening of the potato tower

I cut off the seemingly rotten and or moldy parts and placed five sections from the five potatoes, each with at least one eye, into the tower through the cut wire ports.

I added 6" more of leaves to the tower. I was ready for more potatoes.

There were more Red Northlands in the bag than there were All Blue. The Red Northlands were dry and looked good. I cut those potatoes with more than one eye into smaller sections, each with an eye. This time I didn't cut the wires of the tower to place the potatoes.

I was able to reach into the tower from the top opening of the tower to place the potatoes.

I cut the fabric where each Red Northland was placed.  I cut quite a few openings to allow access for the sprouting potatoes to send out green foliage.

The last type of potato to plant was the Yukon Gold.  These were good and dry, also.  I cut them into smaller sections, again making sure there were eyes in each piece.  I placed 6" more of leaves into the tower and then the potatoes.  Cut some openings in the fabric and covered them with more leaves.

I expect to plant a patio type tomato in the top of the tower above all the potato plants. For this reason the top layer is at least 1' deep.

Once the potato planting was finished, the tower had a lean to it. That was because I was reusing old fencing. I became concerned a good breeze just might topple it over. So I set about to add some reinforcing.

I found two of the concrete reinforcing rods I used in the plot last year. I placed them very close to the tower and drove them into the soil about 2'(61c) with my heavy hammer. I then cut four 10" lengths of tie wire to tie the tower to the concrete reinforcing bars. I was confident this arrangement could stand a good breeze.

My first potato tower was complete. There remained more leaves and fencing. I building another tower was a possibility.
If I do, I need to purchase more seed potatoes.  I think I will get more All Blues.




©Damyon T. Verbo - all rights reserved